Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
